Landlubber Mike

I am currently making a model of "Bluenose" which is for a vertical bottle. I have made about six vertical bottle models over the years. The others were all with sea in the bottom. This one will be on a stand as it is a full hulled version. The way I bottled them was to put them in stern first, raising the masts whilst holding the ship in an home made tweezer. I then settled the ship in the modelling clay. The masts were then raised to their full extent by pulling the forestays (which are through the bowsprit) through a knitting needle which had been bent into a small U shape at one end. This held the forestays down towards the sea whilst pulling the forestays upwards. John Fox 111 has a method of doing it with a thin piece of wood on which you place the half hull, raising the masts whilst the hull is still in a horizontal position with the bottle on its edge then lowering the ship onto the lower hull part.  This is the method I will be using on this one. 
One of the bottles used many years ago was a large, almost bell shaped, brandy bottle. I filled the bottle with water and sealed it then used a glass drill to drill a hole in the bottle as close to the bottom as possible.  Once the ship was set and secured I passed a cable through the hole, and out through the neck, and secured it behind the ship on the bottle wall. I then attached a light fitting and added a suitable shade. It was for a friend of mine who wanted a different type of table lamp. I haven´t seen her for years but the last time I saw her she still had the bottle and it was always a talking point for visitors. 

I've picked out two bottles for my first SIB scratch projects.  One is a half gallon beer growler with a 31mm opening.  The other is a tequila bottle with a 24mm opening.  I have a bunch of bottles that I've been collecting, and these are the two with the widest openings.  I figure i'll start wider rather than torture myself too much in the beginning...
 
I see that the preference for most SIBs is to lay the bottle on the side.  I'm planning on doing that for the growler, but am thinking of keeping the tequila bottle upright.  It seems like it would be much easier to add sea to a bottle that is upright.  Any pitfalls on using an upright bottle?   I imagine it could be a little tricky inserting and flipping the ship, and then raising the sails.  I haven't seen much in the SIB books that I own, but thought I'd ask folks here.
 
Thanks in advance!
 
Mike

I often ask people what's new and exciting?  It's usually met with confusion since most of the time when some one greets you all you have to do is say good and keep moving.  Sometimes it's fun to make people think.  Any way, I have some exciting news I'd like to share but starting a post all about me seems self centered so I want to keep this open to any one that has new and exciting news to share.  Since it's off topic it could be about anything.  Grand kids, cars, toy's, what ever.  
 
  So here's my exciting news.  You may have noticed I haven't been around much the last couple weeks.  I've been doing a lot of hoop jumping paper work signing and bought my first house!   
 

 
It is small comparative to houses in the US but it's a good start.  We have a spare bedroom my wife would like to make into an office for her writing.  I'm going to see if I can't steal a corner of it for a ship yard.  Which would mean I'm out of the coat closet!  I also have a shed I can store bottles and wood I mean to get to eventually.  
 
So that's what I've been up to.  Any one else have exciting news?

I also guestimated and eyeball measured bottle inside diameters for several years until I had to extract a partially erected model that was a bit too tall for the bottle. I still remember the re-work that had to be done and my vow to "Never do that again."
 
I use a strip of paper folded lengthwise taped to a rod, wire or dowel, trimmed until it just clears the bottle ID.
 

Bottle ID gauge. The paper folds for insertion in the bottle.
 

And opens out in use (sometimes with a bit of help).
 
I then extract and measure the gauge and use that measurement for the rest of the layout of the model. I subtract the planned depth of my sea and the amount of clearance I want between the mastheads and the bottle and use that final dimension to size a beam-end photo or drawing of the vessel I want to build. After printing that image, it also goes into the bottle to verify that my visual image matches up with the reality, mostly to check for length in the bottle.
 

Juan Sebastian Elcano standing in for her sister Esmeralda to check length and overall visual of the project.
 
I've seen a number of devices to measure bottle IDs but I'm a big believer in the KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle and haven't felt a need to make something more complex when I can make one of these in a few seconds. Also, my tools have a tendency to get sucked into a black hole to reappear some time later when no longer needed.
 
Don't forget to measure the ID of the bottle's neck and not just at the mouth. I've had that one bite me more than once.

I love topsail schooners as well.  As well as frequently appearing as the rakish privateers, smugglers and other fast craft of the 18th and 19th Centuries, many topsail schooners led humbler lives.  A favorite of mine is the coasting schooner Eagle, taken from the plans of the Model Shipways kit years ago.  It has interesting detail on the deck and the square sail makes the rig a little more involved that a simples schooner's.  This is my first model of the Eagle from 25 years ago, when I was still using plumber's putty.  I've made 3 more since this and used this vessel twice for classes for experienced builders.  I have her plans but wonder if putting them in here might be a copyright issue.
 
Alex
 

I built a C3PO plastic model with my dad when I was little.  Seeing your picture brought back memories

I have two projects in progress.
 
One is of the Chilean Navy School Barquentine Esmeralda in 1/640 scale that I've been working on since October 2012. The model is about 3 1/2 inches X 7 inches (89 mm X 178 mm) and highly detailed.
 
  
Esmeralda under sail and my most recent photo of the model in progress. Click on the thumbnails for larger images.
 
Details completed or nearing completion but not yet added - and not in the photo - include 3 more boats with davits, 4 inclined ladders from the weather deck to the lower deck, 4 signal guns on the forecastle, 3 hose reels, 18 barrel-like containers in 4 racks for the inflatable life boats, and the flying bridge with radar units on its roof that goes on top of the deck house. I'm working on detailing the 2 rowing boats with floor boards, thwarts, oars, tillers and rudders and the motor launch with similar details including an engine compartment.
 
 
I have also started a model of Dan Clapp's world championship hard water racing yacht Insanity in 1/90 scale going into a vertical 2 liter reagent bottle.
 

My plans for Insanity. The black concentric circles are the inside diameter of the bottle and the smallest diameter of the opening.
 
With only 9 parts and five lines to rig this should be a quick build but still with the highest quality I can produce. I've gotten no further than fabricating the hull components, mast and boom, primed. I plan to use colored casting epoxy for the water and ice.
 

I plan to pose Insanity like this.
 
 
I don't intend to reproduce my build log of Esmeralda here, it can be found on Model Ship World, but will post Insanity here soon.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Here is the larger of the three Scottish Maid models I am working  on.  I put the glasses in so you can get a sense of size. The first photo shows the smaller version that has the hull in 5 pieces and the larger one.  
 

 
The second photo shows the bulwarks.  They are around .75 MM thick.  I will run them thru my thickness sander to get them down to about .25 MM before I install them.
 

 
 The third image shows the masts, boom, and bow sprit.  Still some work to do on the masts.
 

Here are the last images that I have taken of the hull today.
 

 

Daniel as always you have wise words to say , you where one of the people who replayed in an very nice and open way when we met on face book and I do not know or yourealise that your building skills have improved impressive i hope i can grow alike ,  but the best is your thoughtful approach to every subject in live , like your comments , friendly greetings from france ..........

This clip of Jim Goodwin aired on "CBS Sunday Morning" 7-12-2015.
 
Congratulations Jim.  It is an excellent clip!
 
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/ship-in-a-bottle/

The internet. Research is a very important part of our work (to me it's the most important part). A lot of ship bottlers shoot themselves in the foot with only superficial research. I remember what research was like in the pre-internet days 40 years ago. In a year of letter writing, arranging inter-library loans, visiting nearby University libraries, etc. it was next to impossible to find the information that can be collected in an afternoon on the web.

After years of building ships, SIB's and other things,  I have come to really appreciate certain tools. Sandpaper, Dremel type rotary tools,  carving gouges etc.  But as I get along in years, the one tool that I appreciate more than any other is my magnifying glasses.  These are this ones I use.  
 

 
What is your favorite (or can't live without) tool to have in the shop?
 
Gwyl

Yesterday I had a chance to start on one of the models. I also had a chance to do some shopping for some supplies. I picked up some shears, cotton thread, some nifty diamond bead reamers, some seed beads, some metal and carbon fiber rods. I bought the carbon fiber rods for the upper yards for the Preussen. I never even knew you could get this at 0.5 mm (0.20") looking forward to working with this stuff. I also picked up some weathered scale decking for the Preussen from Artwox.
 

 

 
The cotton thread will be black for standing rigging and the camel for all of the running rigging. I bought the seed beads to add some blocks as Mr. Knudsen's models do not come with any. I wanted to up the bar a bit.
 

 
the 0.39" music wire will be for the upper mast sections and bowsprit.
 

 

 
Artwox threw in some scale anchor chain as a bonus!
 

 

 
This is the first time I have ever built a paper model and the kit goes together quit well. Paper is a bit fussy but I am slowly getting the hang of it.
Jeff

All kinds of plastic, resin(C3PO), wood (Cutty Sark), paper (RcD2)

I build miniature model ships, sail and steam in display cases.     I really don't have the patience to try and get them in bottles.   I have in the past, but I cut the bottoms off the bottles, put the models in and glued the bottom back, disguising the join with fancy ropework!
I am also building a log cabin (Alaska 1898)    A front view shows the cabin in deep snow.   The back is open, showing the cosy interior with a flickering pot-belly stove and an oil lamp on the table (both lit with light-emitting diodes).
Bob
 

Congratulations Daniel!  Now you just made things harder on yourself by raising the competition level in future events
 
Personally, I like the turk's head knot and the whitecaps around the ship.  To me they add a little touch of artistry (and motion) to the composition that you don't get from your typical static ship model (which is where most of my ship modeling endeavors have focused).  As captain with no plans on entering my work into any competition, I'll build my models the way I like them

I did mail one SIB that I sold to some pirate rein-actors.  It ended up going from Colorado to Michigan to Florida and back to Utah.  First by mail and then hand carried or in luggage.  As far as sea I used the same Plasticine I usually use.  It stay's soft and melts at 200 degrees Fahrenheit.  To get it to stick to the glass I held the bottle over a hot burner for three to five seconds.  Just long enough to melt the Plasticine touching the glass.  I was advised by members of the Facebook group to use epoxy to glue the ship in.  Epoxy doesn't fume like some glues and it holds tight.  I found some mariners epoxy that dries white so it works as the spray around the ship as well.  Once complete I went to UPS and had the ship wrapped in bubble wrap and put in a box with packing peanuts.  Then that box was put in another box with packing peanuts.
 
 
 
A quick word about Fedex since I used to work there several years ago.  There was a common saying among Fedex workers.  If you can stand on it, drop kick it or throw it against a wall it's ok to ship Fedex.  Not that it happens to every package but I did see each of those things happening fairly often.  If you ship FedEx pack accordingly.         

Hi Jersey City Frankie,
I saw your post on Model Ship World about the Wavertree.     Glad to hear she is being restored properly.     I agree that it is very sad that hardly anyone builds models of this type of ship.    I have built Wavertree from the plans you posted, but can't lay my hands on a photograph of it at the moment.   But here is the sister ship Fulwood that I built some years ago.  
Bob
 

Congratulations, Daniel! Well done.
 
Re: the knot. Some people come up with ridiculous notions to look "smart" - no matter how illogical. I've even heard that we have the bottle blown around the finished model, never mind that these constructs of paper, thread and wood would burn up from the radiant heat just being within six inches of a blob of 1200F glass. They can't comprehend what can be accomplished with meticulous planning and careful work because they've never done anything more demanding than a computer shoot'em up. Take such comments as compliments because they come from people who are completely bewildered.
 
Re: the white water. I somewhat agree with the observation, boats like this one are surprising clean through the water. Perhaps less white would work as well to convey movement without distracting from the model. You're developing a good eye for what works and what doesn't - trust it. Some builders never see what they've built for what it is, but only see what they want to see. You've never been like that and it shows in your work through a steady and rapid improvement from each project to the next. Keep it up.

I have a friend in the local club that attends a contest every year for in Manitowoc Wisconsin.  He's bugged me about entering a model into the competition for the last couple years and this year I finally did.  The competition is based on a point system for the model so you aren't competing against other modelers your competing on how good your model is based on their grading system.  Depending on the points earned a modeler wins bronze, silver or gold awards.  
 

 
To be honest I entered in the novice level.  I didn't know how harshly they judged and since the rules are that if you win in the lower levels you can't enter in that level again I thought I'd start from the bottom and work up.  So next year when they hold the competition again I'll enter as intermediate.  I'll have to step up my game for the next competition.
 
 

Greetings Gwyl,
 
I guess there is not much real comparison to those artists, however, they are working at considerably larger scales than most of us normally use for our modeling efforts. Don't get me wrong, there carvings are things of beauty in themselves, let alone to adorn a model ship. Over the years I've found it difficult, at best, to carve decent figure heads out of wood at small scales.
 
What i have turned to is sort of half carving, and half layering. The photos below show the making of one of the figureheads for my BonHomme Richard models.

This first photo show all the tiny parts I cut out of sheet styrene to form the base of the figure head. I made templates out of prints glued to styrene, then used a fine pin to trace many copies onto another sheet, and carefully cut and sanded them to the flat shapes shown. To get the exact shapes I am afraid to mention I used my CAD software to draw what I wanted in basic outline from the plan's more detailed drawings. I then basically sliced through my drawing to form the shapes shown as cut.
 

This photo shows the two halves of the base figurehead. Each is made up by gluing the pieces together, not seen is the bottom piece on each side, which is the lion's main, just the main. The inner pieces are the inside of the head, with snout, and a rounded cut out that fit exactly over the beakhead end. Once the assembly was glued onto a model, I then did a little sanding to round things out a bit.
 

This last photo shows the figurehead as finished. I added the scroll between the lion's paws and the beakhead by using .005" styrene sheet and forming it like a scroll to fit. The little gem in the center of the fold was simply carved styrene, painted a nice shiney blue color.
 
I've done pretty much the same on several other models in the past, just don't have decent enough photos of those to share.
 
If I thought I could carve them from scratch, and from wood, I would probably do so, but this system works fairly well and is quite a bit easier once you get the hang of it.
 
Anchor's A Weigh!
John Fox III
Ladysmith, WI

Gwl,
 
The two on smaller craft may be a little harder to find.  Here is a pinky I have made at least 7 models of from the plans in Small Sailing Craft. 
This was before bottling her.  I tried some of the pictures of finished models but kept getting the message "File too big to upload"  Maybe I'll figure it out.
 
Alex

I went aboard the City of Adelaide some years ago in Scotland.     The Irvine Museum had a plan posted on their board.   I wrote asking if they could supply me with a copy, but they never replied.    Eventually, I built this model from photographs and data from Lloyds Register.    
Bob
 

My anthill casting is now working good, these are my latest pieces.



 
 
 
 
Lextin.