Bernard Kelly

Thanks Chasseur.

The annual edition of the journal is now in the clubs forum for your viewing pleasure!
Chasseur ⚖️

The Main mast is done less running rigging.

Welcome Nils!

Welcome aboard Mils! Great bunch of fellow s-i-b modelers here.
Anchor's A Weigh!
John Fox III

Hi,
Just checking in and saying Hi!
My name is Nils and I am a London based self employed window cleaner.
I’m just completing my first build this week, it’s Titanic in a hexagonal lambs spiced rum bottle.
 
I will create a post and show progress shots in the correct area.
thanks 
Nils 
 

Here we have HMS Tiger, The Most Splendid Cat, arguably the best looking warship the Royal Navy ever built. Launched in 1913, built by John Brown & Co in Scotland, she was assigned to the 1st Battlecruiser Squadron during the First World War. Tiger would go on to fight at the Battle of Dogger Bank in 1915 and the Battle  of Jutland in 1916. Her official motto was “Quis Eripet Dentes” or “Who Shall Bear my Teeth”.
The model is entirely built from boxwood and brass. The sea base is carved jellying wood and painted, and her rigging is mostly nitinol and copper wire.  Of course the paint is by ScaleColors, nothing else will do. This model is a bit smaller than my usual scale of 125’ to 1” or 1/1500. Tiger here is around 1/1900 scale. I wanted to see if I could achieve the same fidelity at a magnitude smaller than my usual work. While I am quite pleased with this one, I think I do prefer 1/1500 as my working scale. 
If you’d like to see more of my work, I have a website with all of the pictures at www.josephlavender.com

 

 

 

The Mizzen mast is done, which is weird as it sits midship on the Preussen. When I think of a mizzen mast it comes as something being located on the stern of a ship. I am modelling the sail detail taken off of the Cap Horn model by Heller. The Preussen will be in heavy seas as modelled. Also finished the detail on the stern in gold. Two more masts to rig up then it's on to the running rigging, then into the bottle. Or as the late Jack Hinkley would say, time to "Hit the Bottle."

 

Hello Donald
I have had a look at this bottle pic and this is what happens when a model has been put into a bottle that has been washed out and not properly dried out,as you may know the bottle has a mini climate of its own and over time the damp has caused the mould,so it is always important to make sure the bottle is completely dry,I use a hair drier to blow warm air into the bottle after swilling it out with Isopropanol. 
regards
allan sib

The annual edition of the Bottled ShipWright will come out on Oct 4th, 2021 to coincide with Ship-in-Bottle day which was officially declared by Commander Donald Hubbard.

Jigger done less running rigging to be added.

This is the 3 ship group for the gallon Grants bottle

I would like to say thank you to the 2 members who welcomed me,I am no techie but a far better model maker,so I will try to upload my latest model pics. these are the 2 ww2 trawlers that I have just finished the biggest one is the Coldstreamer a military class and the other is the Mersey class HMT Boyne and the third one is a round table class called HMT Sir Lancelot still under construction all 3 will be launched into a gallon Grants whiskey bottle

I would like to say thank you to the 2 members who welcomed me,I am no techie but a far better model maker,so I will try to upload my latest model pics. these are the 2 ww2 trawlers that I have just finished the biggest one is the Coldstreamer a military class and the other is the Mersey class HMT Boyne and the third one is a round table class called HMT Sir Lancelot still under construction all 3 will be launched into a gallon Grants whiskey bottle

Just finished the Spanker less the control lines that go to the Jigger Mast. I have to get the yards on the jigger first to determine length of control lines.

 

.
 
 
 

Österstjernan. A locally constructed 'packet ship' working from Loviisa,South East Finland.

Turbinia 1894. Fastest ship in the world at that time with a speed of 34,5 Knots!

Greetings Alan,
It was indeed a learning experience, glad I did it. I guess you are correct, attempting to find ways to make paper do what I am used to wood doing, perhaps not the best approach. I've seen some amazing card stock ship models, must take a slightly different approach to achieve that level.
Anchor's A Weigh!
John Fox III

Thanks for sharing John. A lot of work and a good learning experience. It seemed at times as if you were reconstituting wood using the saturated paper, but without its better qualities. Thanks again and stay safe.
Alan

Greetings Old Friend,
I am glad you enjoyed the experience! <Grin> I am not sure about "patience", to me that is what is needed when doing something I don't like, modeling is a love so I really don't count hours at all. I am just pleased that others find my efforts interesting enough to follow, and perhaps find some things that might "work" for them, or inspire them to try different things.
Anchor's A Weigh!
John Fox III

Greetings Omni,
Thanks for the kind words! It was time consuming, mostly the time was spent experimenting with different methods and materials for each step. Once I figured out what worked best, that made things easier to repeat.
Anchor's A Weigh!
John Fox III

Absolutely fascinating John. I have been totally engrossed in your project from the beginning. The time, thought, and effort you have put in is a tribute to your patience and skill. As Onni says ´amazing work´ Thanks for sharing your expertise with us.
Bernard

Amazing work John and I imagine very time consuming. Thanks for describing in detail your work on these card hulls.

My work on experimenting with card/paper model ship building continued with finishing up the second hull, the one with colored card stock second planking. The hull was cut free from the building board by slicing through the bulkheads at the top of the bulwarks. A simpler stand for the hull was made from blue colored card stock. The following photos show the freed second hull in the stand.
 



            The photos above show that I also added card stock blocking at the extreme bow and locations for the 3 masts. The multiple longitudinal bulkheads definitely define the deck areas much better than the first hull in my opinion.
            Work progressed with cutting down the interior edges of the bulwarks, removing the excess stock that was included in the bulkheads to make the hull more stable during planking. I used several tools that I built, made up from pieces of 1/16" interior diameter brass tubing and pieces cut from a single edged razor blade, with wooden handles made from maple. I used a Dremel moto tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the razor blade pieces of various widths at the cutting end. I shaped the other end into shanks that would fit into the brass tubing, then slid them in and glued them in place. These miniature chisels work nicely, and I've used them on many models in the past.


            The photo above shows how the interior planking of the bulwarks on the first model's hull turned out. I was not happy with these results, the uneven run was the result of not quite having faired the bulkheads properly, and partly due to the miniature clothes pins used to clamp the single piece planking in place. I decided that on the second hull I would experiment in ways to improve these problems.
            I ended up filling in the gaps between bulkheads with card stock before final sanding the bulkhead interior sanding. This definitely helped even things out, and kept the clamping devices from indenting the interior planking pieces. I did the same thing for the stern of the fore castle deck and fore face of the quarter deck as well. The following photos show this work.


            I then proceeded to cut away the tops of the bulkheads above my blocking. I decided that with the double layer of planking, the bulwarks would be thick enough with just a single layer of card stock glued inside.
            The next work was to cut and glue the white interior planking. This was a process of using paper to make templates and then transferring those outlines to the card stock and cutting. These strips and pieces were then glued in place. The results were much better than the first hull at this point. I also drilled the holes for the masts. The following photos show this work.



            Work continued on this second hull with making paper templates of all the decks. These were traced on stained white card stock and stained white paper with planking lines drawn on it. All of these parts were cut out and fitted to the hull, to make sure they fit properly. I then stained more white card stock, traced the deck parts and cut out some waterways for the model. I was not happy with the way these waterways looked, they were a bit too wide and attempting to cut or sand them thinner just didn't work. I decided to remake the waterways by staining a piece of white paper and then gluing them to card stock and cutting them out. These looked much better, but are still probably a bit too wide for this scale. The decks were then glued to the hull. The following photos show this work, the waterways photo shows the first ones made, I simply forgot to photograph the final waterways.



 
            The most challenging work on this second model hull was my next work. I used black card stock to make the cap rail for the hull, in a single piece. I placed the card stock on the top of the model, held it in place with a stiff piece of thick cardboard pressing tightly enough to follow the entire curve of the top of the bulwarks. I traced the outline of the bulwarks onto the stock and cut it out. I used a small compass to then traced a line 1/16" inside the outer edge of the stock. The difficult part was to cut out this inside edge as carefully as I could. I can say that it took 3 attempts to get past this last step, as noted above with the waterways it is nearly impossible to re-cut or sand this thin card stock if any spots were too wide. I did use a black magic marker on the cap rails edges, as this stock has a white interior.
            The waterways and cap rail were then glued onto the hull. The results are shown in the next photos.



            At this point I believe I will be ending my card stock and paper modeling efforts. I found it very interesting, and in some cases rewarding, to have attempted this work. My personal conclusions would be that I definitely would rather work with wood, it's more stable and easier to "work" than card stock. I was surprised at how well some things worked, such as making up the masts and yards. But during building and fitting to the second hull I have already broken several of the yards. Saturated construction paper is just too brittle in the end, as I related earlier.
            If I were to attempt any more card stock modeling I would most definitely use "solid" card stock, this stock has the color saturated through it's interior and not just on the outside faces like the stock I used. I also would probably not hesitate to use paint, or color printed detailing, on any further modeling of this type.
            I also learned more about bulkhead model work than I had previously known. Making the plans for a bulkhead model from a set of lines plans, using QCAD software, is interesting work, and these card stock models a nice way to test out my methodology.
            As a parting shot, I did make up the chain plates for the model, but being made of saturated construction paper they were so brittle that I did not bother to add them to the hull.
            Thanks for your patience in reading my experimentation in card stock modeling.

Anchor's A Weigh!
John Fox III